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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.